Well Water Systems: Pumps, Tanks & Repair
A water well system is a cased hole in the ground, a pump that lifts the water, and a pressure tank and switch that push it to your taps. When the water stops, sputters or tastes off, the fault is almost always in one of those parts, so this section is laid out around them.
One thing to know up front: on a private well, nobody else is watching the water. CDC says the owner is responsible for making sure it's safe to drink, because public drinking water rules don't cover private wells.
How the parts fit together
Most homes built on a well have the same basic layout. EPA describes three kinds of wells: dug wells about 10 to 30 feet deep, driven wells about 30 to 50 feet deep, and drilled wells that can go thousands of feet and must be cased. A pitless adapter lets the water line leave the casing below the frost line. Jet pumps sit above ground for shallow water, while submersible pumps hang inside the casing for deeper wells.
Up at the house, the pressure tank and switch decide when the pump runs. Minnesota's well handbook says pressure tanks typically shut the pump off at 40 to 60 psi and turn it back on at 20 to 40 psi.
Start with the symptom
If something's wrong right now, go straight to the problem:
- Nothing at the taps: no water from your well
- Weak showers: low water pressure from a well
- Pump clicking on and off: well pump short cycling
- Spitting faucets: air in the water lines
- Pump never shuts off: well pump keeps running
- Breaker trips: well pump keeps tripping the breaker
- Cold-snap outage: frozen well lines
Pumps, tanks and switches
The pump does the heavy lifting, and it's the expensive part. Read how well pumps work first, then the pages on submersible pumps, jet pumps and how long well pumps last. Before you buy a pump, rule out the cheap stuff: plenty of "dead pump" calls end at the pressure switch or a waterlogged pressure tank.
The well itself
The hole, the casing and the fittings on top rarely get attention until they fail. These pages cover them:
The water
EPA recommends testing a private well every year for total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids and pH, and testing right away after a flood, a repair, or a change in taste, color or smell. Send samples to a state-certified lab. Our well water testing guide covers what to order. If bacteria show up, shock chlorination is the usual first step, and whole-house filters for well water handle iron, sulfur and sediment.
FAQ
Is well water safe to drink?
It can be, but only testing tells you. EPA's baseline is a yearly test for coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids and pH. If you think the well is contaminated, CDC says don't drink it and call your health department.
What are the main components of a well?
The casing lines the hole, a cap seals the top, and a screen limits the sediment that gets in. A pitless adapter carries water out below the frost line, and a jet or submersible pump lifts it. The pressure tank and switch sit in the house or well house.
What is the average cost of a new well?
HomeGuide's national average well drilling cost is $10,500, and a 200-foot residential well with casing, pump, electrical and permits runs $6,000 to $16,000. Depth, ground conditions and the distance to the house all move the price.
Does a drought affect well water?
It can, and shallow wells feel it first. Dug and driven wells draw from water near the surface, so a long dry spell can drop them below the pump intake. Deep drilled wells hold up better.
All guides in this section
Sources
- Centers for Disease Control and PreventionWell Water Safety (opens in a new tab)
- U.S. EPALearn About Private Water Wells (opens in a new tab)
- Minnesota Department of HealthWell Owner's Handbook: A Consumer's Guide to Water Wells in Minnesota (opens in a new tab)
- U.S. EPAProtect Your Home's Water (opens in a new tab)
- HomeGuideHow Much Does Well Drilling Cost? (opens in a new tab)