Water Softener Making Noise

What does water softener regeneration sound like?

During a regeneration the valve steps through backwash, brine draw, rinse and refill. Each step has its own sound. You'll hear water running to the drain, gurgling as the brine tank and resin bed flush, and a click or a short motor hum as the valve moves to the next stage. GE's manual lists running water from the unit into the drain as normal.

SoftPro says these sounds last 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the softener's capacity and settings, and that a softener typically regenerates every 3 to 14 days. GE puts a manual recharge on its units at about two hours.

That's why the noise so often shows up at night. Most softeners are set to regenerate in the early morning, when nobody's using water.

Noises that point to a problem

Grinding or a motor that stalls

Grinding means something mechanical is wearing out. Whirlpool's manual connects a stalled or clicking motor to either a bad motor or an internal valve fault putting high torque on it, and the fix is a new rotor and seal or a new motor and switch. On many units the motor fault also throws an error code on the display. Don't keep forcing regenerations on a grinding valve. You'll finish off the gears.

Hissing

A steady hiss when no regeneration is running usually means water is getting past a seal. Start at the bypass valve and its O-rings. If you can hear it but can't find a drip, put your ear to the drain hose. Water running to drain all the time is a valve problem, not a fitting.

Banging

Banging when the valve shifts is water hammer. It's usually trapped air or pressure that's too high; SoftPro recommends 20 to 80 psi. GE calls for a pressure-reducing valve above 80 psi. On a well, a pressure switch set high can cause this too.

A sucking or whistling sound

If the softener sucks or whistles while it's drawing brine, the injector is partly blocked. Clean it. Whirlpool's steps: bypass the softener, unscrew the injector cap, remove the screen, disc, gasket and flow plugs, wash them, and reassemble with silicone grease on the O-ring.

Water softener keeps draining or running water that won't stop

If water runs to the drain for hours, or all the time, the valve isn't returning to service. Fleck lists three causes for a drain that flows continuously: incorrect valve programming or position, foreign material in the control, and an internal leak. A control that cycles over and over usually has a faulty switch or timer.

Here's how to narrow it down:

1. Check the display. A flashing time means the power went out and the clock lost its place, which can leave the valve mid-cycle.
2. Unplug the softener and plug it back in. On Whirlpool units, an error code that returns after about 8 minutes means the fault is real.
3. Put the softener in bypass to stop the water while you wait for service.
4. Call a tech if the drain still runs. Internal leaks need new seals, spacers or a piston.

A running toilet can sound a lot like a softener draining, especially in a basement. Check the toilets before you blame the softener.

Quieting a normal regeneration

If the noise is normal but it wakes you up, move the regeneration time. SoftPro suggests reprogramming the timer away from nighttime hours if the sound bothers you. Just don't set it for a time when you'll be running hot water. GE warns that using hot water during regeneration lets the water heater fill with hard water.

A softener in a closet next to a bedroom will always be audible. Rubber pads under the tanks and secured drain hoses help a little. Moving the drain hose so it doesn't slap against the standpipe helps more than you'd expect.

When to call a pro

Call a water treatment tech for grinding, a motor that stalls, error codes that come back, or a drain that won't stop. Those are valve repairs. HomeGuide puts most softener repairs at $150 to $600, and a service call alone at $40 to $100 before parts.