Well Inspection: What It Checks and What It Costs

What a well inspection costs

HomeGuide's figures from its 2026 guide:

Water testing is priced by panel:

What the inspector checks

HomeGuide lists the usual scope:

• The casing, cap, seals, vents and wellhead
• The ground around the well for contamination sources
• The pump motor, pressure gauge, relief valve and electrical parts
• A flow test
• Water samples, if lab testing is included
• A written report with recommended repairs

The visit takes about 2 to 3 hours, and certified lab results come back in 3 to 10 days. Plan the inspection early in your contingency period so the results land in time.

One gap to know about: HomeGuide notes an inspection doesn't judge whether the water table can supply the home over the long run. If the seller mentions the well "gets low" in summer, ask for a longer drawdown test. Our page on well yield and recovery rate explains what that measures.

Which water tests to order

EPA recommends testing a private well every year for total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids and pH. That's the floor. Minnesota requires new wells to be tested for bacteria, nitrate and arsenic, and arsenic is worth adding anywhere it shows up in local groundwater. Add radon, uranium, pesticides or other chemicals if the county health department says they're common in your area.

Whatever you order, use a state-certified lab, and have the inspector collect the sample rather than the seller. Our well water testing guide covers the details, and bacteria in well water and nitrates cover what to do with a bad result.

Red flags worth negotiating over

• Positive coliform bacteria. Usually fixable with shock chlorination and a fix at the wellhead, but get a clean retest before closing.
• A buried or short casing. Minnesota requires the casing to stand at least 12 inches above the ground, and EPA Region 8 calls for 18 inches outdoors. A casing at or below grade lets surface water in.
• A cracked casing, missing cap or settled seal. EPA lists these as the things to look for on any wellhead.
• A well pit. EPA Region 8 says pits aren't appropriate in flood-prone areas or where the water table is high.
• Too close to the septic system. CDC lists 50 feet from septic tanks and drain fields as a minimum setback. Your state may require more.
• A pump that short cycles or a waterlogged tank. Both cost money soon. See well pressure tank problems.

How to get a fair quote

Ask each inspector the same questions:

1. Is the water test included, which panel, and is the lab state-certified?
2. Will you measure flow and the water level, or just the flow at a spigot?
3. Will you open the well cap and look down the casing?
4. Do you check the pressure tank air charge and switch settings?
5. Are you a licensed well contractor, or a home inspector who adds a well check?

A licensed well contractor will usually find more than a general home inspector, especially on the pump and casing.

DIY vs pro

An owner can check the pressure gauge, look at the cap and casing, and send a sample to a certified lab. For a home purchase, hire the inspection out. The buyer usually pays, and the report gives you something in writing to negotiate with.